When planning your trip to French Polynesia, you’ll be faced with the challenging task of picking from the 118 islands and atolls. Fakarava needs to be on your shortlist if you’re an avid diver. Its biodiversity is unmatched and is a paradise for shark lovers.
Once you’ve decided on Fakarava in the Tuomotu Archipelago, you’ll need to look for a place to stay but unlike larger islands such as Tahiti and Bora Bora, your choices are much more limited and the choices for hotels is next to none. This is where the pension in Fakarava comes in and is the primary accommodation option.
Let’s help you answer the question, “where to stay in Fakarava”.
Read more about French Polynesia
- Ultimate Islands of Tahiti travel guide
- 2 week Tahiti itinerary
- Tahiti packing list
- How to travel Bora Bora on a budget
- Review of Le Meridien Bora Bora
Best way to save money on stays?
- For most of French Polynesia, Booking is my go-to platform. That’s because when you pair it with their cancellation policy and Genius 15% discount, you
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What is a pension?
If this is your first time to French Polynesia and the Islands of Tahiti, you are undoubtedly new to the term “pension” as we were on our trip.
Pensions are a type of lodging that is commonly found in Europe and countries that have large European expats.
In the strictest sense, a pensions must provide accommodation and food only for guests. However, it doesn’t have to have an on-premise restaurant for non-residents and also doesn’t have to provide common areas.
A pension is similar to the bed and breakfast that is more of a common term in North America where all or some meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) are included. Think Airbnb but with some food included.
Pensions in French Polynesia are more of a generalized term for family-owned properties that are much more affordable than resorts and hotels. Some but not all are half-board (or demi-pension), which means breakfast and dinner is included and sometimes mandatory.
Pensions are Tahiti’s secret to affordable accommodations
Pensions are typically meant for longer stays and on islands like Fakarava it’s really the only option available. As you’ll see below, the range of comfort and quality is quite broad, covering everything from camping to modest luxury.
Best Pension in Fakarava
Okay, now that we have the basics out of the way, what are your options when it comes to where to stay in Fakarava? Here are more or less all the pensions in Fakarava to choose from. I have it sorted from the most basic to the upper end.
1. Tekopa Village Fakarava
This property has a combination of beachfront camping and bungalows and the cheapest pension you’ll find on Fakarava. The facilities are basic and shared but will save you a lot of money.
Minimum nights: 2
Meals: Breakfast
Wifi: Yes, but only near the kitchen
Bicycles: Yes for a fee (1,500 XPF per day)
Kayaks: Yes
Price: 7,500 XPF per night for a basic bungalow. Camping is 2,000 XPF per person
Transfer Fee: 1,000 XPF per person
Credit cards: No
2. KoriKori Lodge Fakarava
3 modern bungalows line a sandy beach. Rooms include fridge, microwave, and are very clean with great water pressure. Breakfast is included and dinner is available to order and served on their communal patio. They have a snack shack so you can easily buy lunch.
Minimum nights: Not specified
Meals: Breakfast (dinner is 2,250 XPF per adult per meal)
Wifi: Yes and free, but only close to the snack bar.
Bicycles: Yes
Kayaks: Yes
Price: 15,750 XPF for 2 adults in single bungalow per night
3. Relais Marama
This is one of the most popular pensions in Fakarava as it’s close to the main town of Rotoava and comfortable lodgings by the beach whether in the bungalow or camping. Note that only shared bathrooms available. Free laundry service available.
Minimum nights: Not specified
Meals: Breakfast
Wifi: Yes
Bicycles: Yes
Kayaks: Yes
Price: 16,000 XPF for 2 adults in the ocean bungalow per night. Camping also available for 3,500 XPF per adult per night
Transfer Fee: Included/p>
Credit cards: Accepted but online only
4. Kaipolanie Garden
Two new and modernly built bungalows by the beach and located in the village of Rotoava. Rooms are air conditioned which is a key feature. Breakfast, dinner, and round trip airport transfers are included. These have to be the nicest bungalows on the island.
Minimum nights: 3
Meals: Half board – breakfast and dinner
Wifi: Yes and free, and available in and out of the room
Bicycles: No
Kayaks: No
Price: 18,000 XPF for 2 adults in single bungalow per night
Transfer Fee: Included/p>
Credit cards: Accepted
5. Pakokota Lodge
Adjacent to their yacht services are modest-sized bungalows, one that can fit 6 people, and another than can fit 4. This one is the furthest away from Rotoava and quite remote.
Minimum nights: 2
Meals: Half board – breakfast and dinner
Wifi: Yes and free, and available in and out of the room
Bicycles: Unknown
Kayaks: Unknown
Price: 21,000 XPF for 2 adults per night
Transfer Fee: 3,000 XPF for first adult, and 2,000 XPF for additional adults
Credit cards: Unknown
6. Pension Paparara
This is a property that is broken up into many small bungalows along the beach, each of varying sizes and some which are en-suite and budget ones that aren’t. The lounge area is quite large and there are different style bungalows for all group sizes and needs.
Minimum nights: 2
Meals: Half board – breakfast and dinner
Wifi: Yes but only available near dining and lounge area
Bicycles: No but available to rent
Kayaks: Yes
Price: 24,000 XPF for 2 adults in single bungalow per night
Transfer Fee: 2,000 XPF per person/p>
Credit cards: Accepted
7. Pension Vaiama Village
All-inclusive family guesthouse that is right by a sandy beach and fringed by coconut palm trees that includes breakfast and dinner. There are 6 bungalows total and 4 types. A visit to a pearl farm is included as well.
Minimum nights: 2
Meals: Half board – breakfast and dinner
Wifi: Yes
Bicycles: Yes
Kayaks: Yes
Price: 24,785 XPF for 2 adults per night
Transfer Fee: 2,100 XPF per adult
Credit cards: Accepted
8. Pension Vekeveke Village
They have 8 bungalows and 4 different types, all with hot water, and private bathroom. They also have the advantage of being right next to snack shacks Chez Elda and Le Korikori which is a bigger deal than you think.
Minimum nights: 2
Meals: Half board – breakfast and dinner
Wifi: Yes, but only near the restaurant
Bicycles: Yes for a fee
Kayaks: Yes
Price: 26,000 XPF per night for 2 people
Transfer Fee: 1,800 XPF per adult
Credit cards: Yes
9. Tokerau Village
Built in 2003, this pension in Fakarava is only 7km from town. 4 bungalows are seated in a groomed garden and steps from the crystal waters. Unlike other pensions, they provide daily housecleaning, and bungalows are equipped with hot water, a TV, and portable fan.
Minimum nights: 2
Meals: Half board – breakfast and dinner
Wifi: Yes
Bicycles: Yes for a fee (1,500 XPF per day)
Kayaks: Yes
Price: 26,400 XPF per night
Transfer Fee: 2,000 XPF per adult
Credit cards: Yes
10. Havaiki Lodge
This is less of a pension and more of a resort with a collection and beach and garden bungalows, a full restaurant, gym, bikes, kayaks and canoe, snorkels/fins, table tennis, table football, and library. Being an old pearl farm, there’s also a chance to visit a pearl farm and open an oyster as well. Units all have air condition and it’s the only lodge that has it on Fakarava. They also have more of a proper restaurant than home-cooked meals.
Minimum nights: 2
Meals: Half board – breakfast and dinner
Wifi: Yes
Bicycles: Yes
Kayaks: Yes
Price: 25,000 XPF per night
Transfer Fee: 2,000 XPF per adult
Credit cards: Yes
11. Tetamanu Village
Think of this as a no frills dive camp. The accommodations are called hostels but they essentially have 6 bungalows right next to the South Pass. This is for people that are primarily here for diving and only want to do the South Pass. Nice bonuses are that it’s close to all-inclusive and also include trips to the Pink Sand Beach for free.
Minimum nights: 2
Meals: Full board – breakfast, lunch and dinner
Wifi: Yes for purchase and only near the restaurant
Bicycles: No
Kayaks: Yes
Price: 36,000 XPF per night for two people
Transfer Fee: Yes (boat transfer)
Credit cards: Yes
12. Motu Aito Paradise
If you plan on exclusively diving the south pass, this is a perfect place to stay so you don’t need to take the long boat ride every single time. They are a small local village of 8 bungalows on a small motu. This is off-the-grid which means no hot water, minimal water pressure, and either solar or generator power. Excellent food is served and and is the true meaning of an island getaway.
Minimum nights: 2
Meals: Full board – breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Wifi: No
Bicycles: No
Price: 38,000 XPF in garden side suite for 2 per night
Transfer: Yes
Credit cards: Not accepted
13. Raimiti Fakarava
Without being right next to the South pass of Fakarava, this pension is as close as it gets being 20 minutes by boat. Sufficed to say, you will consider staying here if you’ll be doing diving and want the option of diving the North and South side. It is on a separate motu quite a bit further in the south. This is the only pension that is full board and has nicely built bungalows on the beach that has an alluring slice of paradise.
Minimum nights: 2
Meals: Full board – breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Wifi: Yes but it is $6 USD/hr
Bicycles: No
Kayaks: Yes
Price: 41,825 XPF per night
Transfer Fee: Included (boat transfer)
Credit cards: Unknown
Map of all Fakarava pensions
Tips for staying in pensions
There are some things you need to know when staying in a pension in Fakarava or French Polynesia for that matter. Keep these in mind when booking and planning your trip.
Tourist tax and island tax – Not all rates include taxes so keep that in mind. The standard tourist tax is 55 XPF per person per day. Local island tax is
Shared bathrooms vs. private bathrooms – Some pensions in Fakarava have communal bathrooms depending on the property or the bungalow so make sure to read carefully.
Wifi is mostly free but don’t expect fast speeds – Aside from a few properties, wifi is included but range is quite limited and speed is incredibly slow. Don’t even think about streaming.
Cellular service – Extremely limited. While coverage is being added here for Tahiti Wifi (I explain my experience in the Tahiti travel guide), expect little to now cell service.
Language – This is not exclusive to Fakarava but from research and speaking to other travellers, you may encounter some pensions that would prefer French-speaking guests. With Pension Paparara, it was certainly a struggle communicating in English but as long as your patient and willing to use Google Translate or play charades, you’ll be able to get by.
Diving – We did all of our diving with Top Dive in Fakarava. If you’re primarily here for diving, my recommendation is to plan everything around it and to make sure you communicate with your dive shop the areas you want to do. Most of you will be staying on the main motu which means that dive shops only do trips to the South Pass once or twice a week.
Mosquitos – This may have been the time of year we were there (February) but they were hot and heavy. We used a ton of mosquito repellent and also had to be very diligent with making sure our mosquito net was fully sealed around the bed.
Beach towels – Not all pensions provide this so it’s better to play it safe and bring your own.
Staying charged – Depending on the Fakarava pension, some will have a couple of outlets handy in the bungalow and some won’t have any at all. be prepared with a flight-approved power bank, power bar, and adapter (French Polynesia uses European round outlets).
Cash – You’ll notice that I indicated whether these properties accept credit card or not. I’d say that unless you’ve fully prepaid, make sure you calculate precisely what you’ll need for your remaining balance, or bring extra. There is an ATM in the main town. Note that Top Dive takes credit card so you’re safe there.
Lunch – Most pensions are half board which means you’ll need to take care of your own lunch. This has two implications – 1) You’ll nee extra money to order the food from your pension or at a nearby snack shack or 2) You’ll need to buy supplies at the grocery store in Rotoava to make your own.
Bicycles – Staying at Pension Paparara, we did feel the urge to explore but were ultimately too cheap to pay for bike rentals since all other islands had it included. My recommendation is to try to find a pension that offers bicycles for free.
Snorkel Gear – Don’t assume that your pension will have snorkel, mask, and fin available as you have to remember that these aren’t resorts. Excursions will obviously have them but if you’re looking to snorkel around your pension, you’ll likely have to pack your own.
Water shoes – As with the rest of the Tuomatu Atoll, the beaches are filled with coral and are quite rocky. Good footwear is essential to stay protected and safe. Water shoes are okay but what you really need are the Newport H2’s.
Airport transfers – Don’t assume transfers are included. Most pensions in Fakarava have a fee per adult for round-trip transportation between the airport to the pension. There aren’t really any alternatives though (you can’t easily hail a cab or book an airport transfer) but factor this into your pension selection.
Frequently asked questions
Tekopa Village Fakarava
Tekopa Village Fakarava, and Relais Marama both have camping options.
KoriKori Lodge Fakarava is one of the most reasonably priced for decent-sized bungalows.
The closest to a resort in Fakarava is Havaiki Lodge. At this property you’ll find a full-sized restaurant, gym, spa, shops, and other amenities.
Havaiki Lodge and Kaipolanie Garden are the only property that has air condition built into their bungalows.
Tetamanu Village and Motu Aito Paradise are located on islets/motu’s right next to the South Pass dive sites.
While most pensions in Fakarava are half-board, Raimiti Fakarava, Tetamanu Village, and Motu Aito Paradise are full board which means breakfast, lunch, and dinner are included. This is why their nightly rate is higher than others.
Kaipolanie Garden is the best balance of price, amenities, location, and hospitality on Fakarava.
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